Cader Idris. My therapy mountain
- Louise Ward Photography
- Jul 8, 2021
- 6 min read
If you have ever driven to Dolgellau, Barmouth, Porthmadog, etc on the A470 you will have seen (unless cloudy or foggy) to the left of you, a vast mountain range. This is Cader Idris. I call this mountain range my therapy mountain, which is the reason why will become apparent during this blog.
Cader Idris has many peaks, the main being Pen-Y-Gader (Cader Idris is normally mistaken for the highest peak) which stands at 893m or 2,927ft. The next peak on the range is Mynydd Moel, which stands at 863m or 2,831ft. Finally, Cyfrwy which stands at 811m or 2,661ft.
The words Cader Idris is Welsh for Idris’s chair (Cadair meaning chair and Idris was a giant who lived on the mountain, watch this video for more about the legends of Cader Idris https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=269TzyyMgzw). It should be noted that the word Cader is a locally known word for the mountain.
There are several paths leading to the summit of Pen-Y-Gader, the most common one being the Minffordd path, this starts at the south at the summit. Another path is the Pony path, this starts at the north of the summit. The Minffordd path starts with a grueling climb of on average 250 steps up through the wooded gorge where it meets a slate bridge crossing junction (left takes you to Pen-Y-Gader, right takes you up to Mynydd Moel).
Once this gruelling climb is completed, you are greeted with spectacular sights of the Cadair Idris range and also the realisation that you still have a far way to hike! There is a sign that tells you which direction to go (to Pen-Y-Gader follow Llyn Cau).
After a short hike along the path, the first sighting of Llyn Cau can be seen.
This significant and spectacular glacial cwm (valley) dates back to the last ice age that occurred thousands of years ago. Including in this area are rocky outcrops known as roche moutonnée (sheep like rock). I have yet to have a dip as it is far too cold for me, but maybe once this pandemic has passed, maybe I will!
After passing Llyn Cau, it is a long winding hike up to the summit of Cader Idris, Pen-Y Gader.
The Pony path in comparison is a little easier on the legs, but only slightly! This starts at Ty-Nant car park, where you cross the road and go up a road track (an old BT telephone is placed just in case of accidents!). Once you get to a kissing gate there is a memorial stone placed as a tribute to a gentleman called Will Ramsbotham. The inscription explains that he completed the Cadair Idris Fell Race in a record time of one hour and twenty-five minutes on the 5th June 1993 but sadly died the next day whilst climbing the same mountain.
After that sombre memorial, the path zig zags until you get to ridge of Cader Idris. The path to the summit is shown by many cairns (navigational tool to help direct you) which is also a scree path (bits of broken rock). At the final part of the hike is a precarious walk along the ridge which shows the beautiful Llyn y Cadair and sights northwards show Barmouth, the Rhinogydds, and North Snowdonia (Eryri) and to the south, the Cambrian mountains, Mid Wales and even the Brecon Beacons (all on clear days!).
This mountain means so much to me, be it the absolute serene quietness once you get away from the many day trippers to the area in the summer time (we tend to arrive later in the afternoon or when the seasons change to autumn and winter) or the unquestionable, magnificent and breathtaking views spanning vastly across the whole of Mid and North Wales, including the rest of Snowdonia, the Cambrian Mountains, the Brecon Beacons, the Llyn Peninsula, Bardsey Island and Cardigan Bay.
When I suffered my massive L4/L5 disc prolapse in 2018, walking became an increasingly difficult occurrence. We would drive to Cader Idris Minffordd Path and I would attempt to walk as far as I could, sometimes to the slate bridge over Nant Cadair whilst being doubly careful.
As time went on, the damage to my nerve became more serious, and the pain began travelling from my L4/L5 spinal region through my right buttock, travelling down the right side of my right leg to my right foot and big toe, even instances where the nerve pain would ‘pulse’ and cause pins and needles (this was part of the Peripheral Neuropathy the prolapsed disc onto the nerves were causing).
Because of this, walking up the many steps up the Minffordd Path became impossible (at one point it took me just under an hour to get to the wooden stairs at the beginning of Minffordd Path, see below).
Most days, it was impossible to walk any further than the quaint, picturesque, and peaceful little lake at the foot of Cader Idris, Dol Idris.
Wherever we went around Cader, the brief time away from the painful new ‘normal’ life disappeared and my muscles seemed to relax enough for me to enjoy the scenery, nature and sounds of the river meandering nearby.
In 2019, I finally met a neurosurgeon by the name of Mr. Hughes (surgeons do not get called Dr, see www.rcseng.ac.uk/patient-care/surgical-staff-and-regulation/qualifications-of-a-surgeon/). He informed me that the injury was worse than feared and that if surgery wasn’t undertaken, the chance of me losing the ability to use my legs, with the possibility of bladder and bowel incontinence was a major possibility (Cauda Equina Syndrome). He informed me that I would have both a Microdiscectomy (removing the part of the intervertebral disc that has prolapsed out pressing onto nerves) and Laminectomy (operation to remove the back of one or more vertebrae inside the spine, known as the lamina. This is usually to give access to the spinal cord or to relieve pressure on nerves). See below.
After an extra couple of hours in theatre (apparently the herniated disc was bigger than first thought), a theatre staff member came to me and showed me the disc (I had asked to see it!). Inside this jar was a pinkish 2 pence sized blob. A 2 pence sized blob had nearly caused me to lose my ability to use my legs and had also made me consider committing suicide due to the unrelenting pain and anguish I had suffered for over a year!
2 weeks after the appointment with Mr. Hughes, I arrived at the Royal Orthopedic Hospital in South-West Birmingham to have the operation. Having the chat with both Mr. Hughes and the anaesthetist about the procedure made me both extremely nervous and embarrassed at the same time! You are not on your back on the operating theatre table but instead lying face down with your bum in the air!
Once the pain relief drugs had started wearing off, I could no longer feel any pain from my spine (obviously I was still in a lot of pain from the operation) down to my big toe. After seeing Mr. Hughes and physiotherapists to see if I could walk up and downstairs, I was allowed home! However, I was given clear instructions. No bending, no twisting, no turning suddenly, no lifting, etc for 6 weeks! My partner had also changed the layout of the living room (my sanctuary) so that everything was within reach for me whilst they were at work and had also given up the use of our bed and camped on the floor (now that’s love!).
Once the 6 weeks was over and I had my follow up appointment with Mr. Hughes (lots of hugs, handshaking, a thank you card and presents were given!), he informed me that in around 10 years, I’ll need a spinal fusion (fusing 2 vertebrae together with metal rods, etc) but he also gave me the good news that I was allowed to start walking again. Little steps involved walks up British Camp, Malvern Hills, the Wrekin in Shropshire, and small parts of Cader Idris. Those steps at the beginning of Minffordd Path that once took nearly an hour to get to, only took 7 minutes!
11 weeks after surgery, I with the help of my partner, climbed to the summit of Pen-Y-Gader, Cader Idris.
The pain and anguish I had suffered for well over a year had become a distant memory once I had got to the summit. I stood at the top and couldn’t stop smiling at the realisation that I was going to be ok and that the last year could be forgotten about.
And that’s why Cader Idris will always be my therapy mountain!
Thanks for reading!
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