My Favourite Places

MAWDDACH ESTUARY BLOG

This is the first of one of many blogs capturing my love of places throughout the United Kingdom.

Back when I was around 15 years old, I visited the area of Southern #Eryri (#Snowdonia) #NationalPark and the #Barmouth region with my wonderful grandparents. We had driven past #Dolgellau and alongside the #Mawddach Estuary till we arrived at Barmouth to pick up provisions before carrying onto to our holiday let cottage in nearby #Llanfair.

It was my first time seeing a massive expanse of flowing water let alone an #estuary, I asked my #grandparents all about it and they told me about the area.

Mawddach Estuary from the #FoelIspripath

So, the Mawddach Estuary starts as the Afon Mawddach (River Mawddach) on a peat bog near Llyn Crych-y-waen which is close to a village called Rhosdylluan in #Gwynedd, #Wales. It slowly meanders along until it gets to #CoedyBrenin Forest. It has a small #waterfall in Rhaeadr Mawddach (Mawddach Waterfall) where it then joins with the Afon Gain (River Gain), the Afon Gain has a mighty waterfall just before it joins with the Afon Mawddach, Rhaeadr Pistyll Cain.

Rhaeadr Pistyll Cain

When it arrives at the village of Ganllwyd it again meets with another smaller river, Afon Eden. It then heads south catching the Afon Wen before it reaches the village of Llanelltyd connecting with both the Afon Winin and the equally as impressive Afon Wnion.  

Bridge near Ganllwyd

If you look to the right if heading from Dolgellau or left if heading from Barmouth or #Porthmadog you will see an old stone bridge. This bridge dates to the post medieval ages of around the 1770’s (eighteenth century).

There is mention of this on the Coflein website (sites and archives related to archaeology, buildings, industrial and maritime heritage in Wales).

They write “According to Williams ('Cymer Abbey' in Archaeologia Cambrensis 130 (1981), pp36-58), an earlier bridge was mentioned in the later seventeenth century; certainly, the crossing would have been an important one for general trade and for the monks of nearby Cymer Abbey (nprn 95420) and there are references to a bridge being in existence near the abbey in 1400. A postcard of 1906 shows a timber and stone weir on the western or downstream side of the bridge, presumably this was to prevent scouring of the piers. Increasing traffic and the narrowness of the bridge prompted the erection of a Bailey bridge on the eastern side but this was removed when a new concrete bridge was constructed in the 1980s to carry the road on a new alignment some 150m to the west. The old bridge no longer carries motor traffic but is in use as a footbridge.” B.A.Malaws, RCAHMW, 18 August 2009.

#PenmaenpoolBridge

Now back to the estuary! Here’s a few points of interest if you go for a walk along the Mawddach Trail. The estuary follows alongside the old Ruabon to Barmouth railway line, which closed in 1965 to both passenger and goods services and now serves as the Mawddach Trail which is 9.5 mile phenomenally stunning route between Dolgellau and Barmouth.

The estuary slowly meanders downstream becoming wider and slowly tidal once it reaches #Penmaenpool (Llynpenmaen) Toll Bridge. This beautiful wooden toll bridge was built in 1879 replacing a ferry service that had served the community for years. It was granted grade II listed status in 1990 and is on the Welsh Cadw registry.

With the bridge bringing in many tourists to the local area, however, on the 22nd of July 1966 the bridge and surrounding area was marred with sadness and despair. The Prince of Wales pleasure cruiser was coming to the end of a cruise to Barmouth and back when it hit the bridge and subsequently sank costing the lives of 15 people. Many residents came to the rescue saving 27 people, including children. These rescuers have never been acknowledged or awarded with any form of awards.

Next door to Penmaenpool Bridge is the George III pub. Gazing out over Penmaenpool and the estuary, the George III Hotel, a charming 17th-century building coated in white paint, features areas that were previously utilized as a waiting-room, ticket office, and station master’s dwelling for the former Ruabon to Barmouth railway line. If you look to the estuary side, you’ll see the old signal box that has been transformed in a bird hide by the RSPB.

We continue down the estuary and reach Abergwynant, home of the wonderful Abergwynant Farm. Located just outside Penmaenpool, Abergwynant Farm boasts delightful self-catering holiday cottages surrounded by the serene and phenomenal countryside. Check out Abergwynant Farm Glamping & Apartments Dolgellau Wales

Billions of #stars visible from #AbergwynantFarm

As goods from Barmouth grew in abundance after the 17th century, so did the need for ships. The northern banks of the estuary, including Penmaenpool and Borthwnog, became home to newly built boat yards and at the estuary’s eastern point, Maes-y-garnedd was a booming ship-building hub and commercial centre for distributing goods and merchandise. This list contained several essential ingredients such as flour, oatmeal, beans, rye, timber, bark, and much more.

At places such as Penmaenpool, boats were commonly assembled at this spot and later transported to Barmouth where they would receive their sails, rigging, and other necessary components. Over a course of time spanning from 1750 to 1865, a sum of 318 ships embarked on their voyages. Sadly, the ship buildings and sailing slowly came to a stop once the arrival of the train came to be in 1867.

Carrying on, we reach Garth Isaf. There are some peculiar and somewhat mis-placed looking concrete cubes on the banks of the estuary. These are anti-tank blocks or tank traps from World War 2. Placed there intentionally, these select few were assigned the task of protecting the railway line near Garth Isaf, #Arthog, known for its efficiency in transporting infantry and tanks. There are other examples of these concrete cubes around the area, Fairbourne Beach and the area around Gwernan Lake near Dolgellau are just a couple of the other spots worth mentioning.

View of Mawddach Estuary, Barmouth, #LlŷnPeninsula and #CardiganBay from #CregennenLakes

At Arthog there is a row of houses that date back to the 20th century. Cardiff entrepreneur Solomon Andrews acquired a piece of land with a view of the Mawddach estuary in 1894.

By 1902, he had finished constructing Mawddach Crescent on the property. He envisioned the row of terraced properties as the beginning of a purpose-built holiday destination for the region, however, despite initial plans, the development was unable to proceed due to the unsuitability of the surrounding land for urban planning. Amidst the chaos of the Second World War, Mawddach Crescent was taken over by the Royal Marines and later renamed Iceland Camp. Huts constructed by the Royal Marines can still be spotted on the nearby Fegla Fawr, their foundations peeking through the trees by the estuary.

We then eventually reach the mouth of the Mawddach Estuary, coming across the mighty and robust grade two listed Barmouth Bridge (Pont Abermaw). The #CambrianLine showcases a timber viaduct that extends for an impressive 900 yards (820 m), solidifying its status as Wales longest and one of Britain’s oldest actively used structures. By the request of the Aberystwyth and Welsh Coast Railway, Barmouth Bridge was meticulously designed and constructed for the railway line linking #Aberystwyth to #Pwllheli. In 1861 permission to begin work was granted followed by construction starting in earnest in 1864, marking its completion three years later with an official opening on October 10th. 

#BarmouthBridge

The bridge has been extensively restored throughout the decades due to such issues as marine woodworm. The latest restoration project started in 2020 and finished at the beginning of 2024 allowing many more people on foot and by train to enjoy this stunning bridge for many years to come!

I love visiting the Mawddach Estuary for various reasons. The location is spectacular, with views across to the Rhinog mountain range and the #CadarIdris mountain range on the opposite side of the estuary. Various woodlands with their own unique beauties hidden inside. Coed Garth Gell is an ancient Celtic rainforest oak woodland that is home to bird species such as #redstarts, #treepipets and even #nightjars on the moorland just above the woodland. Abergwynant Woods with its wonderful surroundings for the growth of unusual plants, mosses, and fungi in the woods and not forgetting the stunning #kingfisher and splash of an #otter swimming in the River Gwynant (Afon Gwynant).

Mawddach Estuary during sunset

It can be a #peaceful location especially out of season when the trail and its many #cyclists and #walkers retreat home after the #summer months.

Diffwys mountain from the Mawddach Estuary

This area of #Cymru #Wales will forever have a special place in my heart as there are so many wonderful people in the local area that have become our very good friends and it still brings me peace and happiness that my grandparents (sadly no longer with us) brought me here when they took me on holiday to this beautiful location. I do hope you’ve enjoyed reading this brief snippet of information on the Mawddach Estuary. Look out for more of my favourite places blogs coming soon!